Date: 31 January 2002
An empty museum with a botanical courtyard of giant banana palms seen though the gaps in dowdy curtains. Canova's Hercules is incredible, like a Bernini in its preternatural skill and dynamism, what panache and ambition for Marble, exceeding Michelangelo.
There is much regional rubbish, tepid backwaters of art history. Good are the realist painters of first half of 20th century. A few crazy De Chiricos. Two giant battlescenes more cinematic than cinema, overblown but better for it. A nice Mondrian.
The Cafe has some of the best light and cakes in Rome.
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